20. Boucheron, “Gas Pipe Necklace,” about 1945–50, Gold, diamonds, and platinum

Bijoux Parisiens

In 1935, Cartier presented a “gas pipe” necklace made entirely of joined gold rings. Jacqueau had conceived this design, modeling it on the flexible tubing used for piping gas into buildings. Other jewelers, too, adopted the modern-looking chain, which they could ornament with decorative clips in floral or geometric shapes. In the post–World War II years, jewelers employed more precious stones in forming such clips, and often made them three-dimensional, like the elegant, diamond–studded arabesque that ornaments the front of this necklace.